“If any of the waste products of third digestion are left under the skin that were not resolved by exercise and massage, these will be resolved by the bath.” - Magninius Mediolanesis , 4th-century Italian physician
What is soap?
Soap has been around since at least 2,800 BC, and has been attributed to the Babylonians. According to Roman legend, soap was named after Mount Sapo, an ancient site of animal sacrifices. Soap makers appear in Spain and Italy in the 7th Century. English began making soap during the 12th century.
Soap is made when combining oil or fat with lye, and allowing them to undergo “saponification.” When combined, it creates sodium or potassium fatty acids salts that makes the substance we call “soap.” These long hydrocarbon chains are prized for their properties that attract fats (lipophillic) and allow for water soluble materials to be washed away (hydrophobic).
Fat + Lye = Soap + Glycerol
Soaps are sodium and potassium salts of long chain fatty acids consisting 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
Soaps are denoted by the general formula RCOO-Na+, where R is any long chain alkyl group consisting 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
Some common examples of fatty acids that are used in soaps are stearic acid having chemical formula C17H35COOH, palmitic acid having chemical formula C15H31COOH.
So sodium salts of these acids are C17H35COO-Na+, C15H31COO-Na+.
Below is a list of oils and their properties that are used in modern soap making.
Apricot Kernel Oil
Properties: Highly Conditioning, Moisturizing, Stable Creamy Lather
High in vitamin A, C, E, linoleic and oleic acids.
Argan Oil
Properties: Conditioning, Moisturizing, Adds Hardness, Stable Rich Lather
High in vitamin A and E and antioxidants.
Avocado Oil
Properties: Conditioning, Medium Creamy Lather
High in vitamins A, B, D and E oleic and palmitoleic acids.
Babassu Oil
Properties: Cleansing, Adds Hardness, High Bubbles
High in vitamin E and antioxidants like phytosterols.
Castor Oil
Properties: Conditioning, Moisturizing, Creamy Lather with High Stable Bubbles.
90% ricinoleic acid, which has traditionally been used to help heal skin conditions.
Cocoa Butter
Properties: Conditioning, Moisturizing, Adds Hardness, Stable Rich Lather
High in vitamin E and other antioxidants.
Coconut Oil
Properties: Cleansing, Adds Hardness, High Lather with High Stable Bubbles
It makes a wonderful cleansing, hard bar with great bubbles.
Grapeseed Oil
Properties: Highly Conditioning, Creamy and Stable Lather
High in lioleic acid, omega 6 fatty acids, and antioxidants.
Hazelnut Oil
Properties: Moisturizing, Cleansing, Stable Medium Lather
All around great oil for soap because it cleanses, moisturizes, and creates nice bubbles.
Hempseed Oil
Properties: Highly Conditioning, Low Lather
High in vitamins A and E, but can go bad in soap faster than other oils.
Jojoba Oil
Properties: Conditioning, Moisturizing, Strong Stable Lather
Like beeswax and cocoa butter, it doesn’t fully saponify, leaving more to hydropylic (water loving) qualities to help moisturize dry skin.
Lard
Properties: Conditioning, Adds Hardness, Stable Creamy Lather
Makes a great, long lasting bar.
Macademia Nut Oil
Properties: Conditioning, Adds Hardness, Creamy Lather
High in antioxidants, oleic acid, omega 3 and omega 6 fatty acids.
Mango Butter
Properties: Conditioning, Moisturizing, Adds Hardness, Creamy Lather
High in Vitamin A and C and antioxidants.
Neem Oil
Properties: Conditioning, Moisturizing, Adds Hardness, Stable Creamy Lather
Calming, gentle oil used in soaps as an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial oil.
Olive Oil
Properties: Very Conditioning, Low Cleansing
Gentle oil with little cleansing properties, but high in antioxidants (Vitamin E and polyphenols).
Shea Butter
Properties: Conditioning, Adds Hardness, Stable Lather
Gives a silky feeling to bars. High in vitamins A and E, fatty acids and minerals.
Sweet Almond Oil
Properties: Stable Medium Lather
Gentle on the skin, has vitamin A and E and oleic and linoleic acid.
Tallow
Properties: Conditioning, Cleansing, Adds Hardness, Stable Creamy Lather
All around great ingredient for soap making. Makes a great, long lasting, cleaning and bubbly bar.
